The Rio Futaleufu

The itinerary we design for Patagonia changes each year, optimizing our opportunities to learn about and give back to the regions through which we’re traveling—creating real connections with the extraordinary people and landscapes. Once the group is established, we will meet to discuss logistics, explore options, then build a solid itinerary that maximizes the time we have available to explore. 

On Day 1, we travel to Patagonia.

Following our long travel, we should arrive in Puerto Montt mid-day, then be transported about 30 minutes to the cool little town of Puerto Varas. If people are wiped out from traveling, they can use the afternoon to relax. If not—and we have the time / energy to do so, we can check out the quaint fishing village and artisan markets on the outskirts of Puerto Montt. There are giant "sea wolves" (lobos del mar) to see—waiting to be fed by incoming fisherman, and all sorts of unique Chilean crafts for sale at the markets...not to mention unique foods to try that came from the sea just hours earlier. Regardless of how we spend the latter half of the day, we'll enjoy a walk to dinner along the shore of Llago Jjanquihue before grabbing dinner in the vibrant square at the center of Puerto Varas. Tonight's lodging is at MaPatagonia Hostel.

After an early breakfast, we will be transported out to the small airfield in Puerto Varas & board small turbo prop planes bound for Chaiten. This neat little village has spent the past 15 years literally rising from the ashes—after a nearby volcano erupted in May of 2008. We'll meet our Bio Bio driver here for a 2-hour ride south to the Futaleufú Valley—passing multiple hanging glaciers, jagged peaks, and temperate rainforests. We hike in Parque Pumalin along the way, and will spend our first two nights just upstream of Bio Bio Camp at Cabañas Sol de Montaña as the group ahead of us with Bio Bio wraps up. After going, going, going...we'll relish being able to adjust to "Futa time" in this extraordinary valley—and will look forward to our first day on the water tomorrow as we navigate.

After warming up on the Rio Azul yesterday, today we step up to the bigger whitewater of the river it flows into—the famous Rio Futaleufú! Following morning coffee, stretching/yoga, and a good breakfast, we'll join the Bio Bio crew to get ready for the famous “Bridge to Bridge” stretch—just 6 miles long, but almost nonstop whitewater. Once off the water, we'll settle into Bio Bio's exceptional riverside base camp—our home for the next 5 nights. This afternoon, there will be a hard shell kayak intro class for those who want to try paddling a Class II section of the Futaleufú tomorrow, then hot tub time to reflect on the day and an incredible candlelight cultural dinner in the open-air kitchen/dining area.

This morning, we'll sink into the beautiful Bio Bio routine of Coffee-yoga-breakfast...then we'll take another lap through Bridge to Bridge PLUS add a few of the more challenging rapids that lie downstream—Mas o Menos and the first Class V of the trip—Casa de Piedra. After Casa, we’ll let those who took the kayak class enjoy a long, calmer stretch as we all float toward “island style lunch”—a beach BBQ on the lower Futaleufú before it flows into Lago Yelcho. Camp time is a bit shorter this afternoon, but we’ll make sure to reflect on our first Class V rapid and/or our first whitewater experience in a hard shell kayak!

Today, we begin introducing ourselves gradually to the Rio Futaleufú—by navigating its largest tributary in inflatable kayaks (duckies)! After breakfast, we’ll drive a short way up one of the most scenic canyons in all of Patagonia, then challenge ourselves on the technical rapids of the Rio Azul. Today is a day of empowerment – we’re all in charge of our own boats—and if you don't think that duckying can be a challenge, you've never duckied on the Rio Azul. Upon returning to camp, there will be ample time for a hike, bike ride, or fishing excursion before dinner…say nothing of simply relaxing with a good book and taking advantage of the down time we don’t often have in our busy lives at home. By now, we're sinking into life in this incredible valley, and pinching ourselves that what we're experiencing is real.

Today, we'll give our shoulders a rest and let our river gear dry out—staying on land and exploring the Futaleufú valley on horseback. Riding on simple, beautiful Chilean saddles with our feet in stirrups carved from local blocks of wood, we will climb way up from river level to above tree line—gaining approximately 3000 vertical feet as we ride through old growth forests to an incredible overlook that helps bring context to the grandeur of this region. From our final destination at an authentic gaucho refugio, we'll be able to look upstream toward Inferno Canyon and will locate "Throne Room"—a rapid we'll become familiar with at the river level tomorrow. Following a picnic lunch that we'll carry in our saddlebags, we'll head back to camp for some hot tub time- feeling so good after a long day in the saddle.

Today features the stunning scenery and challenging whitewater of Inferno Canyon. We drive 25km to Rio Espolon, launching /warming up before the most narrow and intense Class V section of the Futaleufú – "Infierno". We run some rapids, scout others, and even portage a few. This is an area that relatively few people have ever seen – as it can only be explored by the most skilled raft guides and kayakers on the planet, and can only be entered when the water levels are just right. There is a unique energy in Inferno Canyon, and a well-deserved sense of pride comes from paddling through it.

Today is our final day of rafting on the Futaleufú—and it'd be hard to argue that the section of river we float today is not one of the best stretches of commercially rafted whitewater on planet Earth. After breakfast, we'll drive upstream to the spot where we left our boats after Inferno Canyon—rafting the class V Terminator rapid and the “Himalayas” section—known for its huge, fun waves before arriving back to camp for lunch. In the afternoon, we can run the entire B2B + casa stretch with no stops—one last lap for our guides to close out their season...or we can enjoy any other activities we haven’t yet had time for—fishing, SUP, biking, hiking, etc. Tonight, we'll close out our time in Futaleufú with a proper Chilean asado (BBQ)—enjoying a communal dinner with our guides and likely some of the valley's local residents before flying north mañana to begin the next portion of this adventure.

We'll be up and moving early on the morning of day 10—leaving Bio Bio camp and heading for Chaiten, where we will fly in small planes back to Puerto Montt and use the day to reflect on all that we have experienced in the Futaleufu Valley while also preparing for our next adventure in sea kayaks. This "buffer day" allows us to catch up on what will undoubtedly be some much needed rest, re-pack for the sea kayak portion, and if we didn't make it there on Day 2, it will also give us the chance to check out the Agelmo artisan market and the fisherman's wharf in Puerto Montt. Tonight's lodging is at MaPatagonia Hostel—the same place we stayed on the night of 3/15, so we'll be able to leave things there that we want for sea kayaking but don't need in Futaleufu (i.e. sleeping bags).

We'll meet an old friend of GOALS and a passionate steward of the local environment, Paz, and her guide team very early this morning to begin the second portion of our Patagonia adventure. They'll transport us from the hostel in Puerto Varas to Cholgo, where our sea kayak adventure will begin, rubbing our eyes and taking in the sights of 2 towering volcanoes that we'll pass under on our drive. This morning, we paddle for a few hours from Cholgo to Quiaca—where we will meet the local Marin family, our hosts for the evening. The afternoon will be spent in a kayak school—both learning from our guides and teaching the local kids—while also talking with the Marin family about the ways that their area has changed—both positively and negatively—as progress and industry arrive in the fjord. We camp tonight on the Marin family's land, then set out again in the morning in search of seals, waterfalls, and wonder.

Morning 12 comes early—very early. Packing our boats in the dark may seem challenging, but the reward will be sunrise from the seat of our kayaks and calm, quiet paddling conditions. Following a send-off breakfast with our new friends, the Marin family, we paddle for a few hours to arrive at the Quintupeu fjord and stretch our legs with a beautiful waterfall hike. From here, we will likely utilize the support boat to make some miles toward Cahuelmó fjord, known for two things—a large, active sea lion colony and a set of beautiful, natural hot springs. We'll enjoy the afternoon here—cooking dinner aboard our support boat—and will camp beside the Cahuelmó pools—natural thermal pools that offer an amazing place to relax and soak sore paddling muscles in the hot water before drifting off in your tent.

Much of day 13 will be spent on land, as we will spend the morning hiking up the valley to the beautiful Abascal lake. To get there, we must paddle up the Cahuelmó river until we reach the trailhead, then start our hike through the native Patagonian rain forest. While hiking, we'll keep our eyes and ears open for many of the local bird species—Huet Huet, Chucao and several others. Our reward comes upon arrival at the lake—an amazing lunch spot that offers beautiful views and for the most hearty (or crazy), perhaps even a quick swim! Upon completing the hike, we will make our way back to the boats and either paddle in kayaks or use our support vessel (depending on time, tides, and weather) to travel toward Quiaca—reuniting with the Marin family for dinner and camping again on their land.

Our final day in the wilderness. We'll wake up early (see a pattern here?) in order to pack up all our gear and be on the water when the conditions are calm and gentle. Our route today takes us to north Llancahue Island, which will take a few hours to get to. Lunch will be prepared on our support boat—after which we'll enjoy one more set of natural hot springs. After lunch, we will most likely utilize the support vessel to transport us from Llancahue Island to Hornopirén, then be shuttled over land back to our now familiar hostel in Puerto Montt. Tonight is our last night in Chile, and we'll find a great restaurant on the shores of Llago Jjanquihue to laugh, reflect, and reminisce as a community on the experiences we've had together and how we've grown as individuals and become a strong team. Tonight's lodging is once again at MaPatagonia Hostel. Tomorrow, we begin the long journey home—but for now, let's stay where our feet are.

Our last day in Chile—but our flights (intentionally) don't leave until late afternoon- so there's still time to make one more run to the markets for last-minute souvenirs before beginning the trip home. If that's not needed, then we'll sleep in and sit at the shore of the lake composing a final journal entry or even painting a memorable watercolor to take home and remember this place. When the afternoon rolls around, we'll head for the airport and begin our journey home.

Arriving in Denver or Bozeman or Salt Lake City in the early afternoon with tired eyes, full hearts, and a wealth of stories to share. Remember...don't cry because it's over—smile because it happened!!